Smiling faces, beautiful places... and beautiful baskets: exploring the tradition of sweetgrass basket weaving

Our search for folk artists has led us around the state and given us the opportunity to meet some very interesting individuals.  Up until this point, all have been self-taught in some form or fashion, taking up the artist mantle for a variety of different personal reasons which motivated them to start their work.  Our next group of artists differs somewhat in that they are not “self-taught” in the strictest sense but, all the same, remain one of the most well preserved folk art traditions of the Palmetto State.  This art form of course is sweetgrass basket weaving.

Front of Corey Alston's Gullah Sweetgrass Baskets stand (photo from Alston's Facebook)

After our trip to the Upstate, and a quick debriefing session at our home base of Wofford College, Krista and I set off for the live oaks, Spanish moss, warm weather and smell of pluff mud that is the Lowcounty of our fine state.  Based out of James Island, Krista used some family connections through the owner/operators of Black Cat Tours, Mark Jones and Rebel Sinclair at http://www.blackcattours.com/aboutblackcat.html, to line us up with the best sweetgrass weavers in the state from Gullah Sweetgrass Baskets. 

Sample of Gullah Sweetgrass Basket's work (photo from Alston's Facebook)

 The art form of sweetgrass basket weaving has been alive and well in the Lowcountry since the beginning of the rice plantation.  At the time rice remained one of the state’s highest commodities and thus rice farmers were highly prized.  Because of this, slaves from rice-growing West Africa where sought after and concentrated along the semi-tropical coast of our state.  This concentrated group then shared many cultural similarities through their native regionalism that eventually lead to the formation of a distinct group and culture known as Gullah.  Of the many African American groups that came to our country the Gullah remain possibly the best at preserving their African heritage and traditions, of which includes the sweetgrass baskets.

Variety of handled baskets for sell at Alston's Gullah Sweetgrass Baskets (photo from Alston's Facebook)

Traditionally these baskets originated as tools where form met function.  The large flat base of the “Rice Fanning” style basket was used to clean and whittle rice.  They also made practical creations that ranged in uses from kitchen baskets that hold food and bread to carrying baskets for the market.  These same styles exist today as well as more modern versions that stray away from a strict utilitarian look to something a bit more artsy with loops and elephant-ear turns.  Both styles still use the traditional, and completely natural, materials of sweetgrass, bulrush, long leaf pine needles, and palmetto leaves and are built to last a lifetime or longer.

An old classic with a modern twist (photo from Alston's Facebook)

Over the years the sweetgrass basket has changed from being a mere functional craft to a unique art form found only in the Lowcountry of South Carolina where it has been maintained in the Gullah culture.  Chiefly Mount Pleasant, SC holds the claim for the home of sweetgrass basket making where weavers dot the sides of US Highway 17 in stands where they sell their creations.  There is also a large collection of weavers on Market St. in downtown Charleston.

Bouquet of Palmetto Roses (photo from Alston's Facebook)

It was here that we met weaver Corey Alston of Gullah Sweetgrass Baskets and talked to him about the art.  He told us that women have been keeping the tradition going from slavery to the present, passing the skill down in the only way it can be taught; from parent to child.  Alston himself is part of a five generation legacy to weave baskets.  His grandmother was so accomplished at the art that her work is housed in the Smithsonian Museum.  For Corey personally he feels that as a male weaver he has a duty to carry on a tradition that goes back to the art’s origins in Africa since the first weavers were male. 

Corey Alston at work (photo from Alston's Facebook)

Though not purely self-taught, sweetgrass baskets remain one of our state’s most treasured folk art forms since it is not taught in school and must instead pass from parent to child.  In this way sweetgrass baskets have been proudly preserved for over 300 years as a Gullah tradition.  I would encourage everyone to take a trip down to Charleston, SC and while you are there check out the sweetgrass basket weavers.  If you want the best go see Corey Alston at the front of Market Street, between the twin staircases in front of the Daughters of the Confederacy building.  You can also find him at 7760 Brookdale Blvd., N. Charleston, SC 29418 or on Facebook at http://www.facebook.com/pages/Corey-Alston-Gullah-Sweetgrass-Baskets/295865456703.  He is also available on the web if you want to email him at corey.alston@comcast.net. 

Daughters of the Confederacy building at the top of Market Street, Charleston SC (http://blog.thegourmez.com/?p=1228)

For additional information about the sweetgrassbaskets check out this interview we found on Corey Alston’s Facebook:

Until next time,

-Nathan

It’s a small world after all: a look into the environmental art of “Tiny Town”

After our stop in Greenville our search of South Carolina self-taught artists took us to an area that I believe really captures the small town feel.  You know that kind of place where everyone knows everybody, as well as their personal business, people spend time out on their front porches in the afternoon, everyone goes to the same school next to the old church, and the houses come up no more than waist high.  Well if you've never experienced that exact “small town” feel it may be time for you to make a trip to Tiny Town in Easley, SC. 

One of the original buildings of Tiny Town

Co-creator Ollie Jennings always dreamed of living in a little log cabin one day but as she grew up she came to the realization that this fantasy wasn't exactly feasible.  Not ready to give on the idea of her dream home Ollie asked her husband Perry Jennings if he would make her a replica of an old log-cabin style church she saw during a vacation.  Perry agreed and built a 4ft tall model log cabin church in their front yard.  However, instead of quenching Ollie's desire the church only fueled her log cabin fever inspiring the husband to build an entire village of log buildings. 

Town's church and the very first building of Tiny Town

Blacksmith's shop in Tiny Town

Since its start in the 1970's Tiny Town has grown substantially.  It now hosts more than 30 buildings ranging in style and design from the originals log cabins, built by Mr. Jennings, to the more modern versions built of plywood, vinyl siding, roofs of shingle or tin.  Maintained by their daughter, Pat Kelly, Tiny Town has become a must-stop Christmas tradition for locals in Easley.  Though we arrived somewhat after the holiday season Kelly was still able to give us a complete tour with much of the Christmas decorations still up behind the tarps and sheets that keep the displays from aging in the summer sun.  Everything from toy car displays to stable yards, manger scenes, dolls, trains, McDonald's Happy Meal stowaways, and of course jolly of St. Nick himself fill the new house-like display cases where they radiate Christmas cheer.  And if the smiling figurines and glowing Christmas lights weren't enough to warm your heart there is a huge bonfire pit where you can thaw out your toes and roast marshmallows.  Kelly claims in years past their registry has shown 5000 visitors in one season alone that braved the cold to check out this Tiny Christmas Town. 

Pat Kelly next to the town's gazebo

This coming Christmas season don't be a Scrooge.  Instead, come and celebrate the season with the decked halls of Tiny Town.  Kelly starts preparing in September for the big opening Thanksgiving night.  The display is open to the public from then until New Years Day free of charge, donations are accepted.  Just head to 555 Latham Rd., Easley, SC 29640 from 5:30pm to 10:00pm.  If you want to call ahead the number is (864) 859-7335 or (864) 905-7798.  If you are interested now and worried about waiting till the next Christmas season feel free to check out this video about the founder http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5u-nSeZRnz4.



A look inside the McDonalds themed display house


 

Until next time,

-Nathan

He made art and saw that it was good: a look into the visionary work of William Thomas Thompson

 Thus far we have met some pretty incredible people who have, for whatever reason, decided to make art.  If anything, our trip has shown that you do not need professional training to create a work that is beautiful or has meaning.  Still, the average Joe or Jane is terrified of the idea of doing art because they “can’t even draw a simple stick figure.”  This is actually a good thing because, to my knowledge, there are very few stick figure galleries out there.  Despite that fact, lack of artistic ability is usually a pretty good excuse to keep the run of the mill person from making art even though they are blessed with a pair of perfectly functional hands.  But what if you lost some of the motor function to your hands?  Well, then you certainly would have an excuse to by-pass art; or if you’re like William Thomas Thompson that might just give you the push you need to dive right in.

A sample of Thompson's work

Once we had finished exploring the areas around Columbia and Bishopville, our trip brought us back to the upstate of South Carolina.  Specifically we ended up in Greenville, SC where we had heard of a self-taught, biblically themed painter.  Not knowing exactly what to expect we set out for what we assumed to be a small studio tucked inside the residential neighborhood indicated by our directions.  To our great surprise we turned a corner and found our artist in residence located, studio and all, in the Greenville Gassaway Mansion.  The house turned studio is a beautiful, multi-storied building that holds much of Thompson’s work and with all his pieces, Thompson definitely needs the space.  

Gassaway Mansion and home to the artwork of William Thomas Thompson

In 1989 international businessman William Thomas Thompson developed Guillain-Barre syndrome, a neurological disorder that left him with reduced motor ability in both his hands and feet.  After a failed attempt at returning to the business world and later in the field of missions Thompson started the only thing that seemed to work, painting, and he has been doing it ever since.  Currently, Thompson has thousands of pieces depicting biblical scenes of Genesis and Revelations as well as political pieces. 

Thompson's creation of the sun and moon

Thompson's depiction of the first day of creation

Thompson’s style is unmistakable from the loose, fluid figures and shapes found in conjunction with selected text.  His acrylic figures form impressive images on canvases that have gotten to be as large as a 300ft long mural that is now housed in the American Visionary Art Museum of Baltimore, Md.  Thompson’s work stands as a tremendous accomplishment both physically as he works with his disability and emotionally as he has faced little local appreciation for his art. 

Some of Thompson's work on display at the Gassaway Mansion

So why do it?  Why spend the countless hours of tedious physical excursion to create the works in spite of his disability?  The answer is simple.  Thompson has a message to get out.  For Thompson, the act of painting is physically taxing and for this reason inspiration alone doesn’t seem to cut it as a reason to paint.  Instead Thompson’s artwork seems to come from an unstoppable urge to get his message out, that is to say when the pain of not painting outweighs the pain of painting.  And he has succeeded in his goal, taking his pieces cross country and even beyond US boarders to scenes in Europe and Iceland. 

Thompson's depiction of a scene from the Rapture

So, if you are ever in the neighborhood of Greenville, SC and you want to meet a visionary artist I suggest you look up Thompson.  You too can visit his collection at the Gassaway Mansion found at 106 Dupont Dr., Greenville, SC 29607 but make sure to shoot him an email at thompsonart99@hotmail.com first.  Also, if some of his work interested you feel free to check out more on his personal website at http://www.arthompson.com/contact.html.

Sample of Thompson's "electric" painting style

Until next time,

-Nathan

Fly by night: a pit stop at the Broom Place

Today Boykin, South Carolina stands as a small community located between Camden and Sumter on SC highway 521.  Known for the mill that came in 1792 not much seems to have changed in the year leading up to the present.  But this sleepy hollow found along a bend in the road was our next stop.  Energized from our successful time in Bishopville we decided to take the general-idea directions we had and seek out the “broom factory” there.

The Broom Place of Boykin Mill (photo by Krista Jones)

Being the location of an old mill, it’s not surprising to find that corn still seems to be a big part of the area we visited.  In fact at the Boykin Mill Farms, a collection of shops and restaurants built on the historic Battle of Boykin Mill site, still houses and operates a 100 year old mill that is boasted to grind the best grits in the area.  And well shucks with all that corn around you are bound to find plenty of hulls and fibers; but what to do with them?  Our next folk artist found the answer to that in brooms. 

Historic sign marking Boykin Mill (photo by http://www.boykinmillfarms.com/gallery/battle_2.jpg)

Susan Simpson, housed in a restored 1740s settler’s home, has been taking broomcorn and making hand crafted brooms to sell in the area for years.  Ok so broomcorn isn’t really made from corn plants but it is great for dying and weaving which is exactly what Simpson does.  Using antique machinery, her creations come in red, green, blue and yellow and take the form of a wide variety of broom types ranging from small brooms for the hearth to large household brooms.  After the broom base is woven it is sewn to a specialized, carved handle where it is ready for use. 

Chairs on the porch of the Broom Place (photo by Krista Jones)

Unfortunately due some confusion about the name of the place and where it was, Krista and I arrived at the Broom Place too late to talk to Simpson.  However, we do plan on making another pit stop there and see the creation that we have heard sweep away the competition.  We would also encourage others to check her out at Boykin Mill Farms, 82 Boykin Mill Road, Boykin SC 29128.  Hours are from Tuesday – Friday, 10:30am – 5:00pm and Saturday 10:30 - 2:00pm but make sure to call ahead on Saturdays to make sure she’ll be there.  The Broom Place’s phone number is 803.425.0933.  Also feel free to check out their website at http://www.boykinmillfarms.com/broom.asp.  

Until next time,
-Nathan

The Muscle behind the Pearl: investigating the Pearl Fryar Topiary Garden

At the end of our talk with the Button King, Mr. Stevens asked Krista and me if we had been to see Pearl Fryar yet.  When we explained that he was the next stop on our list, the Button King gave us a personal escort through the heart of downtown Bishopville, straight to the front yard of topiary gardener, Pearl Fryar (a courtesy that the two Bishopville artists extend to each other). 

Pearl Fryar Topiary Garden near entrance

Now I know what you are thinking, two renowned self-taught artists who are both in Bishopville, SC; what are the odds?  Well, that I couldn’t tell you, but what I did learn from our trip is that, despite the most adverse conditions, individuals will continually rise to the occasion to overcome hardship and make something beautiful, their art.  Bishopville is a small town located in one of the poorest counties in our state.  In the past it was known for only one thing— cotton.  This is still clear to anyone passing through today who observes the numerous open fields, dotted with small clusters of white, that dominate most of the landscape.  However, cotton isn’t the only thing that grows there.

Pine trees near "Peace, Love and Goodwill" portion of the Garden

For those of you who have not seen the documentary A Man Named Pearl (which I highly recommend) Pearl Fryar is a 71 year old resident of Bishopville who has created and maintains a topiary garden that defies the rules of horticulture.  Born the son of a sharecropper in North Carolina, Fryar began the gardening for which he is now famous at his current home in Lee County.  Determined to win yard of the month to quiet individuals making racial slurs about an African American moving into the community, Fryar collected the discarded “throw away” plants from a nearby nursery.  With the few remaining green shoots that survived on these plants and a 3 min lesson on how to cut plants with a hedge trimmer Fryar began to growing what is now a internationally recognized garden gallery filled with his “living sculptures.” 

More from section near side entrance (photo by Krista Jones)

This is not a garden of green bunnies or rigid geometric shapes but rather a culmination of abstract pieces from Fryar’s creativity that flow together to form, not a garden, but a feeling.  Experts in gardening walk through with their mouths open at the accomplishments this man has made in topiary art.  Pieces that are impossible to create per the experts have flourished under Fryar’s care; his lack of professional training leaving him freed from the boundaries of convention to soar.  And how does his garden grow?  Hard work and a lot of patience Fryar claims are the secret to the 3 ½ acre garden that surrounds his home. 

Tree bordering side of "Peace, Love and Goodwill" section of the garden

Fryar’s creativity is astounding.  He has the ability to think and form space in 4 dimensions as he prunes and trims his living sculptures, taking into account how they will change as they grow, eventually making the shape he wants.  And Fryar’s work does not stop there.  He also has many pieces of “junk” art that take the form of sculptures and mobiles throughout the garden.  Though these are not for sale they do make appearances in shows and exhibits that host Fryar’s work.  In fact each work is made with a removable component from the base that it is attached to so that Fryar can mix and match his junk art interchangeably.  This ensures that the pieces work together to create the combined environment he wants. 

"Junk art" sculpture near the entrance of the garden 

In addition to his artistic talent Fryar remains a humble, charitable community man.  Fryar has donated living sculptures both to his local downtown area as well as to the state museum in Columbia.  He has also given much of his time visiting schools and events to deliver the message, to students and adults alike, that with hard work you can accomplish anything.

Pearl Fryar

If you are ever in Bishopville come by any time year round from 10:00am to 4:00pm, Tuesday to Saturday, to 145 Broad Acres Road, Bishopville SC, 29010 to see this miraculous garden.  If you aren’t ever planning on visiting Bishopville I send the same message, come see Pearl!  The garden is free to tour, donations are accepted.  I would also suggest calling ahead to 803.484.5581 to get a personal tour by the man himself, Mr. Pearl Fryar.  Also feel free to check out the garden at http://www.pearlfryar.com/ or watch A Man Named Pearl.  I know you’ll enjoy seeing these "cut-up plants" as much as I did.

(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jp2K0eQC_r0&feature=fvw)

Until next time,

-Nathan

Buttons are King: a closer look at button legend Dalton Stevens

Having trouble sleeping?  Tired of those restless nights filled with hours of wakefulness?  Suffering from an uncomfortable mattress, too much caffeine or the old insomnia kicking in again?  Well why not take up a nice quiet hobby to pass the time while the rest of your household is sleeping peacefully?  This is exactly what local Button King legend, Dalton Stevens, did and it put Bishopville, SC on the map.

Dalton Stevens playing us a song

 After discovering the Chicken Man of Columbia, our search for local artists took Krista and me to Bishopville, South Carolina where we had heard word of a guitar playing entertainer who has ascended beyond the world of music into the realm of buttons.  A quick trip down I-20 to exit 108 brought us to the first signs pointing to our state’s very own button museum.  And who should the curator be but the Button King himself Dalton Stevens.    

Close-up of a button creation

Stevens is a down-home, local resident of Bishopville that can boast some pretty impressive talents which include the ability to play the guitar, banjo and mandolin.  He is also a professional piano tuner and local button expert.  In fact Stevens is personally responsible for all the pieces in the Button Museum.  Now keep in mind this is not a museum full of stuffy shelves and glass cases host to antique buttons but rather it is a gallery made to display all of Stevens amazing button clad creations. 

Button King's car

Stevens, long suffering insomniac, began this hobby as a way to pass the time on those evenings when he couldn’t sleep.  Since the TV networks signed off at 2:00 am in those days, and he was tired of counting sheep, Stevens decided one day that he might as well start sewing buttons.  He began with a pair of blue jeans that over time became an entire denim suit complete with jacket, hat and shoes all covered in the buttons that Stevens had attached.  But Stevens didn’t stop there; his sleepless nights have yielded at least six coats, some hats, at least one guitar, a car, a hearse, 2 caskets, a bathtub, outhouse, grandfather clock, several picture designs, loud speakers, and a piano all totally encased in buttons.  That’s right everything but the kitchen sink covered in every size, shape, and colored button imaginable, oh but wait he has one of those decorated too.

Button King's hearse

What may have started as humble beginnings with a simple pair of button clad britches became a craze that got both local and later national recognition.  Over the course of his lifetime the Button King has been on local news, and eTV specials.  Stevens has also been invited to such big name shows as Johnny Carson, Bill Cosby and Regis and Kathie Lee (just to name a few).  Written publications have also been kind to the Button King, with at least 27 books, magazines, and newspapers containing pieces on him; including The Guinness Book of World Records 2006.  He has even been asked by BMW to make them a button car but turned them down on the grounds that he had already done too cars and wanted to do something more interesting.

Button clad dash of the buttonmobile

For those of you who are ready to head down and get your very own piece of this button collection I have to say sorry because, like Indian Jones has pointed out time and again, “it belongs in a museum” specifically the Button Museum.  So head on down to 55 Joe Dority Rd, Bishopville, SC and visit Dalton Stevens at the museum that adjoins his house. 

Button casket

Better yet call ahead to the museum number at 803.428.3841 so you can meet the legend himself.  The museum is open to the public and is free of charge, donations are accepted.  Who knows if you catch him in the right mood you might even get your own personal solo, Krista and I were treated to great little tune called “Everybody’s waiting for something.”  You can also visit the Button King on his website http://scbuttonking.com/.

(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xp87IQxyZs0)

Until next time!
-Nathan

Why The Chicken Man crossed the Road: A deeper look at the artwork of Ernest Lee

For years self proclaimed pop artist Ernest Lee has been known to the residents of Columbia, SC for the characteristic tall, thin paintings of palmetto trees and both chicken men and women, earning him the nickname Chicken Man.  If you ask many locals how to find him they would direct you to an open street side like the one found at Gervais and Harden St.  However, while directions like these may have served you well in the past, the Chicken Man can now be found on a new roost.



Outside Ernest Lee's studio when it's open

As a piece of helpful advice to anyone who wishes to find some of our state’s self-taught or folk artists, I would suggest a fast internet connection with Google, a cell phone with a strong signal, a few mild detective skills and a lot of patience.  With the combined efforts of me and my partner, we managed to make our way up the pecking order from associates and art venders of the elusive Ernest Lee, tracing him to his new, downtown studio at 1015 Whaley St.  Why the change?  New laws on street venders in the city of Columbia created an atmosphere more conducive for the Chicken Man to light upon a more permanent location, replacing Lee’s original “open mobile art gallery” with a more traditional studio. 

This is where we began our search for Ernest Lee.  We identified the place quickly enough by the colorfully decorated trailer out front and the Chicken Man-style entrance door but unfortunately Lee was nowhere to be found.  Still in good spirits about our discovery Krista and I made our way to the downtown Richland County Library where we heard that Lee’s work was currently on display.  We found it on the bottom floor in front of the children’s section.  No sooner had we read the information sheet about the artist and saw that the display will last until March 6, 2011 than a man approached us and asked if we liked his work.  We spun around to find Ernest Lee standing right behind us as he aptly introduced himself saying “I’m the Chicken Man.”  After a short conversation and tour of his show (which features not only chickens and palmetto trees but a tribute to both Michael Jackson and Martin Luther King Jr.) he invited us back to his shop.

Ernest Lee outside his studio

When the studio is officially “open” the painted trailer is completely fenced in by a row of Lee’s artwork.  There is also a colorful sign that says OPEN out front. 

Open sign out front of Lee's studio

Though Lee seems happy with his new space it was clear to me that he misses the old days in the open air.  It’s warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer but there is just something about the old way of selling his art that Lee prefers.  In its most basic sense I took this to be a longing for freedom.  Lee is by no means and ordinary man and prides himself on creating art that is extraordinary both in the subjects he chooses, ways he portrays them, and materials he uses. 

Lee's work placed outside his studio

Though he might feel a little cooped up every now and then it is clear that the spirit of creativity and freedom has not left his artwork as his chickens spread their wings to fly, or more aptly in his works to dance. 

Come check out the Funky Chicken Man at his new shop 1015 Whaley St, Columbia, SC.  Or find him on the web at http://ernestleeonline.com/ or on Facebook at http://www.facebook.com/pages/Ernest-J-Lee-The-ChickenMan/147900715222312.

Until next time,

-Nathan